Rajah Beach Ayurvedic Clinic
Guruvayoor, Kerala
The ancient Hindu temple of Vadakkunnathan, dedicated to Shiva, stands in the very centre of the city of Thrissur in the southern state of Kerala. Historians have still not come to a common opinion about the time of its construction, while believers hold that Vadakkunnathan was erected by Parashurama — the sixth incarnation of Vishnu. The temple is under state protection and declared a monument of national importance, and in 2012 it was recommended for inclusion in the tentative list of the UNESCO World Heritage.
The building is executed in the Kerala architectural style, unique for India, whose distinctive feature is a high, steep roof capable of withstanding the fury of the monsoons and protecting from tropical downpours. In Kerala architecture wood is often used — for walls, framework or ornaments. According to religious beliefs, a living soul remains in the wood, bringing into harmony the surrounding nature, the building itself and its inhabitants.
The majestic towers, framed with stone lace, face the four sides. The exterior of the temple makes an indelible impression, but the interior décor is even more striking: the walls are decorated with frescoes depicting scenes from the famous Indian epic «Mahabharata». There is also an open hall here — a temple theatre for ritual dances and chants; its walls, besides painting, are finished with carved wooden ornaments.
The Vadakkunnathan Temple is surrounded by an extensive park area. Long ago a dense forest stood on this spot, where dangerous predators abounded. Soldiers used to drive convicted criminals into the thicket so that the beasts would «carry out justice». Then one of the maharajas cleared the surrounding territory of the lush tropical vegetation, and this barbaric custom disappeared. Only at the end of the last century were new trees planted near the shrine.
Now the park area belongs to a state-appointed council that looks after all the Hindu temples of central Kerala. On this territory any public organisation has the right to hold gatherings on the most varied topics, to arrange festivities and celebratory festivals. From the residential quarters of the centre of Thrissur the park is separated by a ring road.
In April — May, on the grounds of the Vadakkunnathan Temple, the religious festival of Thrissur Pooram takes place, for which up to a hundred elephants are brought into the city. This tradition is already more than two centuries old. The colourful spectacle lasts about 36 hours; the faithful come to Vadakkunnathan in their thousands to feed these majestic animals — and neither a tropical downpour nor a strong wind can hinder them.
The ceremony begins at dawn with a procession of elephants. Strings of 15 huge animals move through the streets from two temples towards Vadakkunnathan. On each richly adorned and painted elephant three people proudly sit — with bright umbrellas, whisks of yak hair and ceremonial fans. Approaching the temple, they stand up at full height on the elephants’ backs and take turns raising the objects they hold in their hands, while the opposite side must repeat or surpass the complex movements of the rivals. Then a theatrical performance begins, resembling a circus show.
The dates of the festival are determined according to local customs: the priests calculate the day the festival begins by the old calendar, checking against the position of the sun and the stars. In different places in India these dates may differ.
Hindus buy special feed for the elephants — a mixture of sugar cane, rice, ghee, coconuts, barley and medicinal herbs, prepared according to Ayurvedic principles. It is believed that this treat will propitiate Ganesha — the elephant-headed god, patron of wisdom and prosperity. People believe that by feeding the elephants tasty and wholesome food they will gain well-being for the whole year.
Thrissur is part of Kerala, the homeland of Ayurveda: a visit to the temple can be combined with wellness — Ayurveda in Kerala.
Guruvayoor, Kerala
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