Ayurveda at the Nagarjuna Centre
Kaladi, Kerala
Sringeri is a small Indian town with a single main street leading to the Sringeri Mutt temple complex. It is located in southwestern India, in the state of Karnataka. On the banks of the river winding between the foothills of the Western Ghats, temples of striking beauty are scattered, resembling petrified lace. There is an ashram where pilgrims and travellers can find shelter, as well as numerous restaurants and souvenir shops.
In Sanskrit, a 'matha' or 'mata' translates to monastery or educational institution. The first Hindu monasteries appeared a few centuries AD, but these secluded abodes of sages only became widespread in the latter half of the first millennium.
Shringeri Sharada is the first monastery where one of the branches of Hindu philosophy was studied and developed. The sanctuary owes its foundation to the famous sage Adi Shankara, who lived in the eighth century. He collected scattered theological sources and systematised the knowledge contained within them, leaving numerous commentaries on the Vedas.
There is a legend explaining why the sage chose this particular spot to establish his first matha. Once, on the bank of a river, Shankara saw a cobra, spreading its hood, shield a toad that was laying eggs from the scorching sun. The sage decided that this was a very pure, pious place, if even eternal enemies could overcome their instincts. It was here that Shankara founded a temple in honour of Sharada, the goddess of wisdom. Besides it, on the grounds, there is the ancient, majestic Vidya Shankara shrine and several other smaller temples.
The entrance to the temple area is adorned by a tower almost forty metres in height. Multicoloured tiers, gradually narrowing, soar upwards, and each of them is embellished with brightly painted sculptures, columns, and friezes. The construction of the monumental gate tower was completed quite recently, in 2014.
Shri Sharada is a large, active temple and a place of pilgrimage. The sanctuary is meticulously maintained, renovated, and extended or rebuilt. As a result, the interior decoration presents a colourful mixture of antique workmanship and later updates. In the mandap, an open hall with a colonnade, white stone columns with carved images of divine guardians and mythical creatures rise in two rows.
The circumambulation path – a ritual walk around a shrine, accompanied by prayers – is quite austere. However, the altar wall shimmers with golden decorations, and the floor is painted with patterns intended to bring good luck. The gate tower is not particularly high and appears to have undergone few alterations.
An ancient structure stands on the bank of the Tunguska River, next to a bridge leading to the opposite bank. The temple is adorned with countless columns, carved images of deities, and intricate friezes. There is literally no free space on the outer walls of the temple, all of it covered in carvings. The building is topped by a dome of astonishing beauty with a golden spire. The sanctuary resembles an unshakeable granite cliff against which the waves of time have been breaking in vain for centuries.
A forest of columns rises from a stepped base, interspersed with six entrances. Each porch is guarded by two *rapala* – stone images of gatekeepers. Usually, the sculptures are made identical, in the form of armed warriors, demons, or giants, but here the statues are different. Some grip traditional Indian tridents in their hands, others beat ritual drums, and still others hold the sacred symbols of Hinduism in the form of giant, elaborately carved conch shells. Elephants and lions majestically tread upon carved friezes, between which are placed sculptural groups of deities.
The temple is small and very ancient. Inside, it is adorned with carved columns of astonishing beauty. The intimacy and serenity of the temple are underscored by religious chants emanating from inconspicuous speakers. Believers sing beautiful hymns in honour of the gods, and sometimes one of the clergy reads majestic ancient texts and mantras in Sanskrit or another equally sonorous language.
Шрингери находится в Карнатаке — ещё одном регионе с сильной традицией аюрведы: Ayurveda in Karnataka.
Kaladi, Kerala
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